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Our thanks go to Dave Whitson for this
comprehensive review of our 2009 guides - the review is unedited and we
have taken into account everything he said for our 2010 edition
Hi everyone,
What follows is a summary of notes I took while walking the Via
Francigena from Lausanne to Roma, from 16 September to 13 October.
This is not a trip diary and probably not of general interest to read
straight through, but I hope it might prove to be of use to those as
they plan their own walk.
Beyond my personal motivations to be on the trail, I walked this time
with the specific intent of checking the route in anticipation of
returning with a group of students next summer. As such, I had certain
points of emphasis on which my notes focused: 1) Where do the waymarks
(WM) work and where do they get you into trouble. Thus, while I read
through the Lightfoot Guide (LG) before each stage and
during bar stops, I generally consulted it while walking only in times
of difficulty (I did not carry a GPS or bring additional route-finding
materials or guides); 2) Where supplies are available and, more
importantly, where they aren't; and 3) Accommodation.
I think it's also useful to know a little of the personal background of
the writer when considering their advice, so: I'm 31, can communicate
the basics in Italian and understand the responses reasonably well
(knowing Spanish helps a lot), train extensively for these walks, and
have spent a lot of time on waymarked pilgrimage
trails. I think I am probably above-average at finding WM, given that I
spoke with a number of pilgrims who were much more frustrated with the
route than I was, but I am definitely still more than capable of getting
myself into trouble. I walked the VF from Lucca to Roma in 2005 and thus
had some familiarity with that part of the route. I only had a month to
make the trek this time, which necessitated some longer days.
Before I get to the daily summary, here are some general thoughts on the
current state of the VF (from Lausanne to Roma):
1) There have been dramatic improvements over the last four years.
Waymarking is significantly better, much more of the route is off-road
or at least off highway. Between the WM and the LG, I spent each day
walking in confidence, not nervousness. In 2005, I told the students
walking with me who had walked the Camino with me the previous year that
in Italy they needed to think more like pioneers than pilgrims. Now,
it's much easier to be a pilgrim.
2) The unrolling of new VF signs has definitely been uneven. In some
places, particularly in the area around Vercelli and Calendasco, the
pretty new wooden signs are everywhere, as are larger brown road signs.
In others, though... I was stunned that, in many parts of the last
200km, the waymarks from four years ago were still the only options -
even when they lead you on to a sub-optimal route. It is important to
know going in that the types of markers you follow will change daily,
even hourly. The most consistent and reliable markers were often little
stickers on the backs of traffic poles.
3) I found accommodation options to be plentiful, affordable, and quite
nice. While I arrived mildly frustrated by the idea of having to call a
day in advance, I actually ended up finding this to be very relaxing
when compared with walking in Spain. There were no races for beds, there
were no questions about the albergue being filled upon
arrival. I had a bed, it was almost always oferta, and it almost always
came with a hot shower. Kitchens, sadly, are largely a pipe dream. I
stayed primarily in parishes, monasteries, and pilgrim-specific spedales,
though I did end up in a few hotels as
well. While I don't speak much Italian, the phone calls were never a
problem. I basically just said the following: Sono un pelligrino. Posso
dormire nella sua parrochia domani? And generally a "si!" followed. Most
commonly, they also wanted to know my name and the time I expected to
arrive, so I started just volunteering those after the "si,' to preempt
the questions and avoid potential misinterpretation (Mi chiamo David e
arrivo a quindici. Va bene?). That was, by and large, sufficient, and
after seeming a little intimidating the first couple of times it
became a simple matter of habit. And, as I'll discuss further later,
this 24-hour notice matters.
4) I met a total of 20 other pilgrims, though 6 of them I met only in
Rome after I arrived. This included four other Americans who, I believe,
are also members of this list and I hope will share their experiences as
well. Of those four, remarkably, it included an American couple who I
had met previously on the Camino de Santiago in
2002, on what was all of our first pilgrimage. That was a surprising
day!
5) I don't think I'm going out on a limb here when I say that I expect
the VF will skyrocket in use over the next five years. The Camino vets
in particular are looking for more, yet also turned off by Camino
crowds. At this moment, the VF has good guidebooks, sufficient WM, a
gorgeous route, access to great food, good accommodation. I realize it
doesn't have 20 yellow arrows to steer you away from every potentially
misleading driveway, but it otherwise has a great deal of appeal. That
said, there is definitely growing tension surrounding the growing
pilgrim crowds in some places. I heard about this most clearly in San
Gimignano's Augustine Convent, from speaking with Father Brian, an
American. When I first arrived, Father Ian told me they are now
demanding introductory letters from parish priests to
identify potential lodgers as pilgrims (though he didn't actually turn
anyone away). But, given that most of the non-hotel/agriturismo
lodging is offered on the VF by parishes and monasteries, places which
are definitely not hotels and are dedicated to other (more important)
work, there is some concern and dialogue over the sense that the people
walking are increasingly there for a cheap, active holiday and not there
for pilgrimage. Obviously, I'm not looking to start another "Who is a
pilgrim?" discussion, but it's enough to say that some are having that
discussion on the VF and perhaps considering just how much they want to
be in the walker-lodging business. On the flipside, though, there are
others quite excited about it. I'm told the priest in Gambassi Terme
hopes to have a new pilgrim-specific spedale completed by next summer
(*with* showers).
OK, on with the daily outline:
BUT FIRST: A disclaimer - every time I mention failed WM or bad
directions, or any other route-related problems below, it is worth
assuming that "user error" may have also been at work. In other words,
it is entirely possible, and in some cases quite probable, that I just
blew it. Still, I mention it in the hopes that others will have better
luck.
LAUSANNE-VEVEY
-WM are generally yellow "Tourisme pedestre" stickers on poles -Lake
Geneva obviously provides the major WM, since you're following it for a
couple of days. But, it can be mildly tricky to know when to follow its
edge directly and when to switch back over to the road. Not a big deal,
though.
-The LG is missing "Useful Info" on the Lausanne-Villeneuve stretch.
-I stayed in Vevey at the Notre Dame church. Very friendly reception
after having set this up via email. They have a two-bed room around the
corner, next to the community center. Bathrooms in the community center
and the priest allowed me to shower in the parish house. He also offered
me dinner, great leftovers from an earlier community meeting. The Notre
Dame church is on the main road towards the end of
town. Upon leaving, continue very briefly down the road and then it is
quite easy to rejoin the lake. For those interested in such matters,
Vevey has a Starbucks (these are the things my students really want to
know).
VEVEY-ST MAURICE
-Easy walk from Vevey to Villeneuve along lake -Around 9km you arrive at
Chateau Chillon, which is well worth a visit -Montreux has an HI hostel
-
http://www.hihostels.com/dba/hostels-Montreux-Territet-055006.en.htm
-The WM in Villeneuve might be a little dicey, though I did leave it to
hit a supermarket. I just worked my way back to the main road from which
I was able to catch the left-turn on to the WM footpath through the
trees.
-I got spoiled by the abundance of resources from
Lausanne to Villeneuve, where it seemed like public restrooms and water
faucets were available every 200m. Well, be warned - there aren't a lot
of options for water between Villeneuve and St Maurice. Fill up (or
empty out!) before you leave. -It wasn't clear to me from the WM exactly
when I needed to leave the canal after Villeneuve and transition over to
the Rhone River. Again, fortunately the geographic WM were obvious here
when the man-made ones were insufficient
-St Maurice has a surprising amount of things to see, including a "Fairy
Grotto"
-I stayed at the abbey, which is almost a hotel, with a set price list,
a full floor of rooms and nice bathroom facilities. 30fr/50fr for a
single/double. I booked by email.
ST MAURICE-ORSIERES
-WM was generally good out of St Maurice, though the train station is a
helpful landmark to work from - get to it and then continue past it
-Take care when following the trails downhill in this stage - some
"steps" are held in place by rebar which actually extends a couple of
inches beyond the boards and can be hard to see
-I had some route-finding issues around the
Pissevache waterfall, but it's easy to just double back to the road
briefly
-In Martigny, WM are often missing, but just followe
the Grand St
Bernard road signs
-I stayed with the parish in Orsieres. In their community center, they
have four foam mats for pilgrims and a potential kitchen downstairs. No
shower here and the only bathroom is the public restroom across the
street (it is open 24 hours)
ORSIERES-GRAND ST BERNARD
-A little uncertainty when the trail splits. A Le Monin/Dranse sign goes
downhill, yellow markers (including VF markers) point uphill. The
downhill is probably preferable. The uphill buys you a lot of extra
uphill which you'll just give back on the downhill soon after (and today
already has plenty of uphill).
-Water is available in Dranse
-In Bourg St Bernard, the one potential stop with facilities along the
way (though it is 1km off the route), the little grocery store was
closed and the bar along the route was closed. But, another was open and
seemed the more reliable - when you join the main road in BSB, turn left
and you'll see it.
GRAND ST BERNARD-CHATILLON
-I took the shorter option after St Rhemy and found it quite advisable.
There are some briefer sharp downhills, but nothing too bad
-There are no WM in Aoste, but the LG has a helpful
map that makes it easy
-The main VF does not enter Nus proper, skipping all facilities (and it
is a steep downhill into town and those facilities)
-The Nus parish was under extensive renovation and
not available to pilgrims
-I took the variant via Fenis (the castle really is spectacular) and
Pontey. All pavement, but very little traffic. Easy walking. The route
from Pontey to Chatillon is quite tricky - don't just follow the
road-marked route into Chatillon as it's much longer
-Facilities: Gagnod-Bar (B), Aoste-All Facilities (AF),
Nus-Bar/Grocery (G), Fenis-B/G, Chatillon-AF
-I stayed at the Hotel Verger (35E) as I had plans change and didn't
want to bother the Cappucini late. I know others who stayed there and
liked it.
CHATILLON-PONT ST MARTIN
-The VF does not enter St Vincent proper, but it does pass a convenient
bar
-WM problematic soon after the bar - I tried and failed to find the
right turn where the road curves left (42.018 - these numbers always
correspond to the specific turn in the LG). Thought I found it, but oh
boy did I not...a fun adventure followed, eventually leading me back to
the WM. I think I just blew this one.
-I took the option via Issogne. All paved and Issogne is pleasant, but
not a must-see by any means. Saving 2.6km is nice, though. WM is limited
so follow the book closely.
-Hone and Donnas both have sizable parishes, but I couldn't get a hold
of anyone in either of them.
-Bard is stunning. I didn't know anything about it beforehand, but I
would consider that a must visit.
-Facilities: St Vincent-AF (only B on route), Montjovet-B/G,
Issogne-B/G, Hone-AF, Bard-B, Donnas-AF, PSM-AF
-Stayed at Hotel Grabun (45E), again because I arrived later and
without reaching the parish. Americans might like to know that this
hotel has Sky Satellite tv, on which one can watch the NFL...
PONT ST MARTIN-IVREA
-In PSM and other parts of this route, white pilgrim silhouettes serve
as WM, often painted on the curb. Keep a sharp eye out...
-In Montestrutto, when you arrive in the piazza, turn left -The WM
follow a different route out of Montalto, taking a wider loop that leads
you along the old route out of town and towards an imposing castle,
before arcing back.
-Ivrea was a pain for me - no tourist info center and a challenge to
find things in general. The LG tells you to turn R at the city walls and
leads you to the center. If your destination is the Ostello Canoe Club,
I recommend turning L instead and following the road around the old town
(along the way, you will pass an internet point on your R) and then
eventually proceeding along the river (Dora Baltea). Turn L
on the bridge over the river, and then turn L again on Dora Baltea. The
Ostello is kind of hidden - take the first left, past the check point,
and go all the way to the back.
-Facilities: Carema-B, Settimo-Restaurant, Borgofranco d'Avrea-B/G,
Montalto-B/G, Ivrea-AF
-Stayed at Ostello Canoe Club (15E, Kitchen)
IVREA-SANTHIA
-There were no WM of any kind from 44.008 until Viverone, but plenty
before and after. Did they change the official route or does the LG just
disagree?
-44.026 tells you to turn R before the San Rocco chapel in Carema and
then L soon after. This ended up confusing me at the next crossroads and
I suggest ignoring it. Continue straight past San Rocco, keeping it on
your R, and then proceed straight on the main road as you merge with it.
-The turnoff to the San Pietro Church (44.032) was unclear - if it is
what I think it was, it was badly overgrown. I stayed on the road.
-At 44.042, the guide advises you to turn R after the B&B. The turn is
actually immediately before the B&B and very easily missed. I got the
feeling that the B&B's owner is used to bailing out pilgrims who are
poking confusedly around his property...
-As you proceed through the next stretch, it would be easy to miss
44.045 - there really are no WM and the poplar trees are your best
landmark -Not sure what happened, but I ended up on the wrong path in
the woods several km before Santhia and ended up on the highway. I
closely followed the brand new signs - I wonder if one of them is
misplaced...follow the book carefully here.
-Facilities: Bollengo-B/G, Palazzo Canavese-B/G,
Piverone-G/B/Farmacia, Cavaglia-B/SM (Supermarket) at end of town,
Santhia-AF
-Santhia has a new pilgrim ostello right in the Piazza de Roma. Keys
from Caffe della Piazza. 5E minimum donation, 8 beds, shower, and they
have arranged for a pilgrim menu at a nearby restaurant. Very pilgrim
friendly town.
SANTHIA-VERCELLI
-Santhia to San Germano Vercellese is very clear, easy to follow
-Leaving SGV, the WM and book lead you south briefly and then
double-back to the highway and across it. There is one critical WM (the
one telling you to double-back missing) and without the book you would
be very sad. I recommend skipping this little section all together -
follow the highway out of SGV and then, half a km later, follow the WM
left off of it.
-New WM call for a L prior to the LG's 45.043. This is advisable - it
gets you to Montonero more directly
-Montonero has a "pilgrim rest-stop" which is a couple of benches and a
fountain.
-Facilities: SGV-B/G, Vercelli-AF
-Slept at Ostello Biliemme, in the Convento Biliemme (10E minimum
donation, dinner and breakfast offered). It has 6 beds and a kitchen
available. If you want to stay there, follow these directions (from a
local Vercelli VF publication) as you arrive in Vercelli (it's at least
1km from the center of Vercelli and longer from the TI): Follow
the LG to Via Trino. At the roundabout, turn L on the long bridge over
the railway (Corso Avogadro di Quaregna) and proceed straight for 1.5km.
At the second traffic light (Piazza Sardegna), proceed right along Corso
Salamano towards the graveyard. Biliemme is on your left after 400m
VERCELLI-TROMELLO
-Apparently a bridge is out, so prior to arriving in Palestro, VF detour
signs lead you on a somewhat maddening backtrack to the highway, which
you follow into Palestro. Sadly, this also results in missing the 720km
marker. The detour signs look like they've been there for a little
while...
-In Palestro, it's easy to find your way to Via Garibaldi, rejoining the
VF proper. But, a brown VF road sign then misleads, guiding you back
towards the highway. Ignore this and continue along Via Rosasco -46.023
mentions a footpath. That is stretching the meaning of the word footpath
at first, but trust the route - it gets better in a
little bit...
-Nicorvo's church has a timbro in it
-Somewhere around 47.023 = Doom. The rice paddies are brutal. No
landmarks, mosquitoes everywhere, and during this stage in particular
the WM fail (or I really screwed up). Hold the book tightly in one hand
and a rosary in the other...
-Facilities: The VF bypasses services in Palestro and Robbio, though
both have B/G and more; Nicorvo-B, Mortara-AF (SM to R after last
roundabout), Tromello-AF
-Slept at the parish in Tromello - 3 camp beds, hot shower, bar
downstairs. Father Carlo is very pilgrim friendly - he was waiting for
me in the morning and walked with me to the town limit.
TROMELLO-PAVIA
-Not sure if I missed something, but the WM led me to Madonna della
Bozzola, not Garlasco
-I think Alt Route #5 should read "with the water on your right" not
left. That, or I took a couple of wrong turns...
-After Madonna, WM is quite clear and reliable the rest of the way
-Facilities: Madonna-B, Gropello Cairoli-B, Villanova-B, Canarazzo-B,
there are also bars on the river, Pavia-AF
-Slept in Casa della Carita (nice room, oferta). You're locked in until
7am. To reach it, turn R after passing through the covered bridge, then
left on Pedotti.
PAVIA-CALENDASCO
-In San Leonardo, new WM call for a R turn off of the main road through
town. I ignored this and followed the book instead, as it could only
make the route longer...
-Once again, the book and WM disagree at 49.020. I followed the WM this
time and unfortunately so, as they deposited me on the SS234. Follow the
book.
-After Campo Rinaldo, I lost the WM and couldn't find the route called
for in the book. It was right around 50.014 - the route seemed to end
near the canal. I must have just missed it...
-Danilo's ferry is awesome (5E) - call in advance to coordinate a time
and then reconfirm in Orio Litta. He also has one of the finest timbros
of the route
-Facilities: Albertano-B, San Leonardo-B/G/F,
Ospedaletto-B, San
Giacomo-B, Belgioiso-AF (@ on L as you enter town), Santa Cristina-B/G/F,
Mirandolo-B, Campo Rinaldo-B, Orio Litta - B/G/F, Calendasco-B/G/F
-Slept in Ostello Le Tre Corone (10E). Very nice hostel that is
pilgrim-friendly. They have a 10E pilgrim menu which was one of the best
meals I had all trip. English-speaking and can be reserved via email
CALENDASCO-FIORENZUOLA D'ARDA
-Calendasco to Piacenza is all on the road and clear
-After following the highway out of Piacenza, the R turn on to Mussina
is not marked at all, which stunned me. There are no WM until the exit
from I Vaccara - has the route been changed?
-I Vaccara was very tricky for me. I followed the highway into town
until reaching a T-junction with Via Rocci. Following the book I turned
R and then curved to the L. At another junction, I turned L on what
turned out to be Strada I Vaccari. After, to the R, on a pole, I could
see an old VF marker, but that didn't jibe at all with the book.
I followed the road instead. It curved to the L. Then a R turn kept me
on Strada I Vaccari, after which the WM resumed for the first time since
before Piacenza.
-I Vaccari is your last chance at water until Fiorenzuola.
-There has been significant work in the Nure River, which makes the
fording significantly more difficult. Much of the river-side road on the
other side has been wiped out so ford as far to the right as you can.
Good luck.
-WM follow a new route beginning at 51.035 and it skips Montanaro,
reconnecting with the book's route in Zena though entering from the
other side of the village (thus 51.039 becomes a L). This route seemed
significantly shorter -Castello di Paderna has a restaurant, but sadly
it is only open nights...
-Facilities: Cotrebbia Nuova-B, Piacenza-AF (4km out of Piacenza there
is a SM)
-Slept in the parish in Fiorenzuola, which has 4 beds, a cot, and good
showers. I emailed in advance
FIORENZUOLA-MEDESANO
-The route is totally clear to San Rocco, where the WM evaporate
-There is a new VF sign at 52.018, and then nothing more the rest of the
way to Fidenza
-Three other pilgrims I met were following a different route from
Chiaravalle, south of the freeway and via Saliceto. No idea if this is
WM or better, but it must be shorter
-Fidenza has a great VF-friendly TI across from the Duomo, with a timbro.
They'll call ahead for you for your next lodging and even take your
picture and email it to you, as a "memento" of your time in
Fidenza...
-Fidenza to Medesano is perfectly WM
-The VF doesn't enter Costamezzana proper, though a fountain is
available at the cemetery
-Facilities: Chiaravalle-B/G, San Rocco-B (limited hours),
Castione-G/B/F, Fidenza-AF, Osteria del Sole-B, Cella-B
-Slept in parish - very nice facilities including a great bathroom. 4
beds.
MEDESANO-BERCETO
-No idea what happened, but I got totally confused between 53.054 and
53.057. If you have the same trouble, you'll end up passing through a
farm, down a driveway, and come out on a T-junction with a paved road
heading downhill to your L. Turn R uphill and you'll eventually hit a WM
-WM is limited from Felegara through to the end of the park, but the
footpath is fairly intuitive
-Beginning near Sivizzano are concrete roadside markers containing
ceramic pilgrims
-A couple of WM changes - after Sivizzano, the WM lead you L off the
road, rejoining it eventually. It's longer, but at least it gets you off
the road for a bit. Then, after 54.013, when the road turns L, continue
straight on a footpath. This will lead you directly to Bardone and save
you some walking
-Facilities: Felegara-AF, Fornova-AF (@ near Piazza Tarasconi),
Sivizzano-B,G, Cassio-B/G/Ostello Via Francigena and a Hotel with
25E singles, Berceto-AF
-Slept in Casa della Gioventu, run by the parish. Berceto has a VF-TI on
the route through town which should be able to place you in the room,
but it was closed when I came through (when the hours said it would be
open). This was a little scruffier than most of the places I stayed,
though I might have had poor timing...
BERCETO-PONTREMOLI
-Great walk, great WM, great old bridges. Awesome day.
-Facilities: Cisa Pass-B/G, Arzengio-B/G (long stretch between those),
Pontremoli-AF
-Slept in the castle. So cool. They just gave me the keys to the gate
when it closed for the day. Lots of beds, good showers, 18E. A sign in
town indicated a pilgrim hostel in the Seminario Vescovile, but I had no
luck reaching anyone there.
PONTREMOLI-AULLA
-Pontremoli to Villafranca was all clear, though you do need to ignore
an old AIVF sticker calling for you to leave the highway too soon after
Pontremoli
-In the woods between VFL and Aulla, I made three wrong turns. Not sure
why. Might have just gotten off the wrong side of the bed. WM are not
always in consistent locations - some are on wrongs and partially
obscured. Take care
-Facilities: Filattiera-B/SM, VFL-AF, Filetto-B/G, Terrarosa-B/G,
Aulla-AF (@ around corner from ostello)
-Aulla has a VF Museum near the end of town that is quite nice. They
also oversee the parish ostello
-Slept in the parish ostello - it's huge! 25 beds, a great shower,
located right at the VF exit to town by the arch
AULLA-PIETRASANTA
-Aulla to Sarzana has very good WM and probably the trickiest downhill
walking of the route
-I followed the seaside alternate. I don't recommend it. No WM (though
it's not necessary), but more to the point it's all pavement, actual
views of the Mediterranean are really limited, and facilities are
largely overpriced fare. But, it might be worth it if you plan to spend
the night there. A grocery store is available around 6km into the
alternate route description
-Facilities: Ponzano-B (not on VF), Sarzana-AF, 58.020-B, constant
bar-restaurants along the coast, Pietrasanta-AF
-Slept in Casa Diocesana La Rocca in a pilgrim ostello, a very nice
4-bed little building. It's just uphill from the duomo
PIETRASANTA-ALTOPASCIO
-Bad WM from Pietrasanta. Look for the little white and yellow stickers
and tiny neon green arrows, along with VF tape
-Particularly tricky for me was 59.005-9. 59.006 calls for taking the R
fork; it's actually the middle of three tines. You will be walking past
private property signs
-Red/white markers appear near Via Aquarella, which makes me wonder if
there's a new route leading to this point. When they do join, though,
it's easy to make a wrong turn - ignore a possible R turn where the
first R/W are visible
-In Camaiore, turn R on Oberdan, not L
-The R-turn off of the river-side trail leading to Lucca is not marked.
Look for a soft, paved fork. This road will make a U-turn and then
another L soon after, leading straight away from the river. Right before
a soccer field, turn L (you may be able to see an old VF sticker at this
point) - this is 59.059
-WM out of Lucca stinks. It exists, but you're better off just following
the book closely
-The 2km shortcut to Porcari seems to be the standard, WM option at this
point
-The R at 60.023 is almost totally unmarked and easily missed
-Facilities: Camaiore-AF, San Macario Piano-B, Lucca-AF, constant food
options between Lucca and Altopascio, Cappanori-G/B, Porcari-B/SM,
Torchetto-B/SM, Altopascio-AF
-Slept in Altopascio's pilgrim hostel - access through TI behind church,
phone numbers on door if closed. Great, great timbro. 8 bedsin 3 rooms
ALTOPASCIO-SAN MINIATO BASSO
-Timbro available in Galleno at Cartolibreria Felix
-WM is not always clear, but generally follow the canal to Fucecchio and
then the embankment from there
-Prior to arriving in SMB, at 61.021 the route calls for a big arc to
avoid the highway. I understand the desire to not follow the highway
here, as there's a minimal shoulder. I still think I would prefer the
highway here, as the detour seems to double the distance -Slept at
Misericordia - 7 beds, more foam pads, cold shower, friendly
reception including pilgrim certificate
-Facilities: Galleno-B/G, Ponte a Cappiano-B/G, Fucecchio-AF, SMB-AF
SAN MINIATO BASSO-SAN GIMIGNANO
-Worth noting that the VF in San Miniato Alto doesn't pass through the
nicest part of town - well worth seeing
-Beware some potentially misleading R/W stripes. Make sure you're
following VF markers
-Timbro at bar in Calenzano - also your last chance for water until
Borgoforte
-The WM is excellent in this section - a huge, huge improvement over
four years ago
-The VF in Gambassi Terme skips the commercial center
-The 1km shortcut en route to San Gimignano seemed well worth it
-Facilities: SMA-B/G, Calenzano-B/G, Borgoforte-B, Gambassi Terme-AF,
SG-AF
-Slept in Augustinian Convent - nice room, great company with the
priests. A letter from a priest may be required. Can be coordinated over
email - be sure to contact in advance
SAN GIMIGNANO-MONTARONI D'ARBIA
-The recommended route to Gracciano is an excellent walk and worth the
extra km
-WM to Abbadia Cuneo is excellent, but then they evaporate. Proceed to
the R of the abbey. Follow the dirt road (not paved, as the book says)
on the right side of the lot downhill through a livestock fence. At the
bottom, there are dirt roads at 2 o'clock, 5 o'clock, and 9 o'clock. You
want the 2 o'clock option; WM will reappear in a km or
so.
-I took the shorter option to Siena since I already had a long day ahead
of me. Extra pavement, but it generally seemed fine
-The L turn immediately after the Ponte Romano leaving Siena would be
easy to miss
-Big disagreement between the WM and book at 64.014. The book calls for
a R, the WM call for a L. I followed the WM - they eventually lead you
around the fringes of a farmer's fields, making for tricky walking as
many of the footpaths have been wiped out. It drops you in central Isola
d'Arbia. At the end of town, after the last bar, WM
lead you back to the VF proper. I would recommend following the book
-Facilities: Quartaia-B/G, Gracciano-AF (thought not
on the VF),
Abbadia Isola-B, 63.028-B (probably a better option for a snack than
eating in Monteriggioni), Monteriggioni-Restaurants, Alt #3-B,
Alt #6-B/F, Isola d'Arbia - AF, Montaroni - AF (VF skips entirely)
-I arrived in Montaroni late, so I stayed in Albergo Bella Napoli
(20E). The city of Naples should sue.
MONTARONI D'ARBIA-SAN QUIRICO D'ORCIA
-In Buonconvento, the book calls for a L on Via Roma and R on Via
Percena, which have you going directly against the WM. Nonetheless, soon
after the WM are with you again
-WM call for you to stay on Via Cassia at 65.011. Better to follow the
book unless you're in a hurry
-Near where the Via Romana and Via Cassia draw close en route to San
Quirico, insistent WM call insistently for a R turn, leading you on a
gravel road under the Via Cassia and then to the L. I really like this
route, as it takes you offroad all the way to San Quirico. It's probably
longer, but much nicer -Slept in the parish - a great facility with lots
of beds, good shower, and an excellent kitchen. The priest speaks
English
-Facilities: Ponte d'Arbia-AF (VF skips entirely), Buonconvento-AF,
Torrenieri-B/SM, San Quirico-AF
SAN QUIRICO-ACQUAPENDENTE
-In Bagno Vignoni, WM lead you L around a spa, through the parking lot,
and then along a jogging trail, eventually dropping you much later on
the Via Cassia. After a few km of highway, you end up in Gallina and
soon after reconnect with the book's trajectory. The book's option is
advisable, I think - follow it closely in Bagno
-Route to Radicofani is quite clear, and remains clear to Ponte a Rigo
-In Ponte a Rigo, newer WM tell you to go L on the highway, the book
calls for a R. Follow the book's instructions; you will eventually
follow older WM along this route
-67.027 is hard to catch, so take care
-Facilities: Gallina-B (not on book's route), On Cassia, before turn-off
to Radicofani - Bar, Radicofani-AF, Ponte a Rigo-B,
Proceno-B/G, Acquapendente-AF
-Acquapendente has a great pilgrim hostel - 8 beds in three rooms, very
well-equipped. They even have signs advertising this as you enter town.
Phone numbers are on the door and they respond quickly! It's on Via Roma
51. Follow the VF through town. Eventually, it will lead you on to Via
Roma - turn L there and it's on your L
ACQUAPENDENTE-MONTEFIASCONE
-Acqua to San Lorenzo Nuovo is very clear
-Leaving SLN, take great care - old VF signs take you on an earlier
route, down to Lake Bolsena and then following the Via Cassia from
there. This is not advisable; the route in the book is far superior
-When leaving Bolsena, LG calls for taking the first left. It is not the
first left, but it is clearly WM
-The alternative shortcut described in LG again seems to be the
official, WM option now
-In Montefiascone, the route is a little maddening and circuitous, but
it will eventually deliver you to the historic core - take care not to
miss the R turn into the historic center, which is uphill at a church
and easily passed
-Going to Montefiascone was a late change in plans, so I couldn't
contact a parish in advance. Instead, I stayed at Albergo Dante, just
off the central piazza (30E)
-Facilities: SLN-B/G, Bolsena-AF (@ in Libreria in old town and MIT
Computer after the arch), Montefiascone-AF
MONTEFIASCONE-VITERBO
-WM is very limited after reaching the cemetery in Viterbo and
non-existent in town
-Facilities: There is a SM leaving Montefiascone and then nothing until
Viterbo aside from one fountain. Take plenty of water for this route in
the summer as you are totally exposed
-Stayed at Hotel Tuscia - a great breakfast included, but otherwise
didn't seem worth it
VITERBO-SUTRI
-A confusing day, with often disagreeing WM and limited facilities
-After crossing the Via Cassia (70.027) is tricky - WM directs you to
follow the Via Cassia for a number of km; the book's recommendation was
hard to catch but would be far superior.
-Before Vetralla, the WM split. Take the L option and you miss the city
(though you still have access to a Coop/Bar combo)
-WM also splits before 70.066 - white arrows with yellow pilgrim
silhouettes guide you through an orchard and alongside the railroad
-The WM also split before Botte
-Just hold the book right in front of your face all day today
-The VF does not enter Sutri, but there are roadside bars
-Facilities: Vetralla-AF, Capranica-AF, Sutri-AF
-Slept in Carmellite Monastery - nice room, 20E
SUTRI-ROMA
-Sutri to Montarosi has good WM
-At 71.031, WM tell you to turn R. Eventually, the WM on road guide you
to join the Via Amerina, a 3rd century road which seems to be in the
process of being cleared. Some stretches are more clear than others. At
its best, it's a glorious walk and highly enjoyable. At it's worst,
you're wading through sticker bushes. It drops you on a
local road, which you follow to the Via Cassia, which you walk along
briefly before turning on to the highway toward Campagnano. Eventually,
you will turn R on to a gravel road. Follow the book's suggested route
instead.
-The route is all clear from Campagnano to Veio Park. There, it is very
easy to get into trouble. In Veio Park, R/W stripes (and a printed VF
sign) call for a turn off of the main road and deep into the park. I
decided to follow the markers. Eventually, these led me across a river
(at which point the route seemed partially blocked, but I couldn't
determine if this was intentional and continued), across a second river
(pretty deep), through sticker bushes, and ultimately deposited me on a
gravel road where the markers evaporated. I found someone and asked how
to get to central Formello (the next stop on the itinerary) - he
described a circuitous 8km route (in Veio I was within a couple of km of
Formello). Anyway, I finally figured out a better
option, reaching Formello's commercial center on the New/Old Via Cassia
interchange and then just following the Cassia to La Storta from there.
All told, it was probably a short-cut and the route through Veio was a
heck of an adventure and I had a lot of fun. More Via Cassia in the end,
but I was mainly laughing about my good fortune
having ended up so close to La Storta. As is probably clear, I thus
can't advise on the route between Veio Park and La Storta, though I
walked through there in 2005 and had no difficulty at that time. The
main point here - don't take that right turn in Veio Park! -I couldn't
really figure out what the LG wanted me to do in Monte Mario Park.
Here's what I did (and what the WM suggest) - upon reaching the
entrance, I followed the steps uphill and then the path to the
viewpoint. After enjoying the spectacular view, I turned around and
turned left down the road, rejoining Triunfale and then continuing on
that into Rome (though be sure to take advantage of the
steps cutting downhill through the Triunfale). WM quickly disappear.
When you hit Andrea Doria, continue straight on Via Leone IV. Eventually
you'll reach the Vatican's walls and you can figure it out from there...
-Facilities: Montarosi-AF (but none on VF, which skips the town),
Campagnano-AF
That's it for the day-to-day. Finally, here are some general thoughts
on the Lightfoot Guides:
What was great...
1) Reliable directions! Such a huge difference. The authors show their
expertise in particular when they guide the walker away from the WM, as
their recommendations are almost always superior to the official option
2) The maps - accurate, reliable, and (particularly important to me)
provide a lot of detail for the surrounding area, making it easier to
correct a mistake if you do make one. No need to also purchase the
Topofrancigena - this guide has you covered. The altitude chart is also
quite handy
3) The timeliness. It is clear that this guide is as up-to-the-momentas
a guide can get. Making a guide is hard enough - annual updates that
provide the details this guide does is a massive commitment.
4) GPS coordinates - I don't use them, but that's a heck of a feature.
5) Accommodation lists - while changes are frequent in this area, they
have a great collection of places to crash.
What I didn't like as much / would change / or is worth noting...
1) Make the arrival in each town/village explicit in the list of
directions and put the name in bold.
2) Explicitly indicate when their recommended route runs counter to the
existing waymarks. I don't want to walk with the book always in my hand
- it would help greatly if I knew that, say, 6km into the walk I needed
to ignore the WM. It might also be nice if they could present these
other routes with a subtle outline on their maps, just so that one could
consider the option or place himself when he follows
those marks by mistake. No need to include turn-by-turn directions, of
course
3) As noted above, I wasn't fond of how they dealt with facilities in
each town, with some identified and others apparently non-existent. They
have a Grocery icon, but it's not used at all in the Vercelli-Roma book,
after being used quite regularly in the
Besancon-Vercelli book. Not sure that the icon is necessary, but they
might consider a subtle way of noting where food (or, more importantly,
coffee) is or is not available.
4) Arrival in big towns was always tricky. Waymarks often disappear and
finding the preferred accommodation can also be difficult. Perhaps they
could include walking directions to the tourist info office - once you
have a map in hand, those cities become simple.
5) Make sure you get the newest edition (or the updates). I met some
other pilgrims who had the 2008 edition (I had 2009). Some huge
differences.
6) I hesitate to mention this, but the "cultural and historical overview
of the region" advertised in each section is often non-existent and what
does come is generally quite limited. I'm not complaining, though - a
guidebook's size is a huge concern and the necessary step-by-step
instructions take up a lot of space. I don't want the guides to be much
thicker and so some things have to go. It's just worth noting that you
won't learn much at all about sights worth seeing or the region's
history from these guidebooks. They are almost exclusively route-finding
and bed-finding tools but they excel in those areas.
7) The distances don't always add up and there are a lot of errors in
this particular area in general. It's not a crisis, but it's always a
little discouraging when a secret, additional km appears during your
walk. It would be nice to get this tidied up.
As a whole, though, this is such a fantastic and necessary tool. It's
more expensive, certainly, than what those walking the Camino are used
to paying, but I think the reasons for the cost are understandable and,
when you consider what you are spending on the rest of the trip, $45 (or
whatever it was) to dramatically improve the quality of the experience
is a very small price to pay. I'm very grateful to these
books and the authors.
That's it. If anything is unclear, let me know. I hope this is of use to
some.
Dave |