
Today, even with the increased focus derived from its designation as a
cultural route by the Council of Europe in 1994, the via Francigena,
is still relatively unknown and unused in comparison
with the St James
Way, which means that travelling along it can be arduous,
but well worth the effort.
In 58 BC,
Julius Caesar opened the via Romana, the shortest route between the North and the
Mediterranean and what rapidly became the backbone of the Western Europe
road system. Then, in the wake of the Arab dominion over Jerusalem (640
AD), Rome became the principal destination of Christian pilgrimages,
with the line drawn along a series of Roman roads called the Iter
Francorum. Over the centuries the route
changed its name, depending on the origins of those using it: via
Francige
na or
Francisca in Italy and Burgundy. Chemin des
Anglois in the Kingdom of the Franks (after the conversion of
England in 607) and Chemin Romieux because of its destination,
Rome. But the via Francigena, as we more or less know it today, was
first documented in the 10th Century when Sigeric the Serious,
Archbishop of Canterbury, travelled to Rome in order to be consecrated
and incidentally recorded his route on the way. From here, other pilgrims
followed in his wake, with the result that it became the major
pilgrimage during medieval times and up until the cult of Saint James in
Santiago de Compostela took over.
Far from being a single road as
the name suggests, the via Francigena is in fact a collection of
options. In Italy, just at the time when people wanted to use it most,
the via Aurelia had become little more than a series of local
roads, vulnerable to raids by barbarians from the coast, while the via Cassia was too far inland for most of the route. So an
approximate third route, the via Francigena, was cobbled out of a
sequence of lesser Roman roads, crossing the Alps via the Great St.
Bernard Pass and dropping down to the plain of the Po and its
tributaries. From here it rose again through the Apennines, meandered
across the hills of Tuscany and then came down for the home straight
across the Roman Campagna.
At its height, the via
Francigena was used by popes, emperors, bankers, merchants, pilgrims and
brigands. When Holy Years were proclaimed, starting in 1300, tens of
thousands used the route, with the obvious consequence that nearby
communities thrived and grew. But by the 17th century the
pilgrimage experience had fallen out of fashion and has only started to
experience a renaissance over the past decade.
The
image of the spiritual Labyrinth - symbolic
representation of the search for the
true meaning of
life - is both sculpted and inlaid on the floors
of many churches along the via Francigena.
In Pontremoli, one can see
the labyrinth of St Peter's de conflentu.
On its upper ledge the labyrinth depicts a knight
challenging death, overlooked by a winged beast
representing the devil. On the sides there are a
dragon biting its tail and an hourglass, symbols that
together indicate the rapid and eternal circle of time.
Within the maze one can also see the abundance of
cathedrals with the Garden of Eden at their centre.
From here the arms of the cross branch off as four
rivers that flow towards the four divisions of the
world. Similar examples of this version of the
labyrinth can also be seen in Piacenza and Lucca.